How to Rivet Leather: Types of Rivets and How to Set Them
Riveting is one of the most satisfying techniques in leatherwork. There is something deeply pleasing about the clean, permanent bond a well-set rivet creates – and unlike stitching, the process requires no needle, no thread, and no hours of careful hand-sewing. Whether you are reinforcing a belt loop, assembling a knife sheath, or adding decorative hardware to a bag, rivets are an essential part of any leather crafter’s toolkit.
This guide covers everything a beginner needs to know about riveting leather in the UK context: which types of rivets are available, where to buy them, how to set them correctly, and how to avoid the most common mistakes. By the end, you will be setting rivets with confidence and achieving professional, clean results every time.
Why Use Rivets in Leatherwork?
Rivets serve two main purposes in leather craft: structural and decorative. On a structural level, they join multiple layers of leather together permanently, often at points of high stress such as strap ends, buckle attachments, and handle roots. On a decorative level, they add visual interest, texture, and a classic hardware aesthetic that is popular in everything from biker accessories to country saddlery.
In traditional British saddlery and harness-making – trades that have been practised since at least the medieval period and are still represented by organisations such as the Society of Master Saddlers, based in Stonham Aspal, Suffolk – rivets have always played a critical role in load-bearing construction. The same principles that saddlers apply to horse harnesses translate directly to the projects you will make on your workbench at home.
Compared to stitching, riveting is faster and, in many cases, stronger for high-stress applications. Stitching distributes load across many holes, whereas a properly set rivet creates a near-unbreakable mechanical bond. For beginners, riveting is also more forgiving: a misplaced stitch line is difficult to correct, but a rivet hole can often be repositioned with minimal visible damage if you plan carefully.
Types of Rivets Available in the UK
Walk into any UK leather craft supplier – Tandy Leather in Manchester, Identity Store, or browse the catalogues of Abbey England or Le Prevo Leathers – and you will find several distinct types of rivets. Understanding what each type is designed for will help you choose correctly for your project.
Solid Copper Rivets and Burrs
Solid copper rivets are the traditional choice and are deeply embedded in British leather craft history. They consist of two parts: a solid copper nail with a domed or flat head, and a small copper washer called a burr (sometimes written as “bur”). The rivet is pushed through both layers of leather, the burr is slid onto the protruding shank, and the excess shank is then peened over with a hammer to create a mushroom-shaped cap that locks the burr in place.
Copper rivets are exceptionally strong, highly corrosion-resistant, and develop an attractive patina over time. They are the standard fastening in traditional British harness-making and are specified in many of the quality standards upheld by the Society of Master Saddlers. For belts, dog leads, satchels, and knife sheaths, copper rivets remain an outstanding choice. Suppliers such as Abbey England, which has been trading since 1982 and serves professional saddlers across the UK, stock a wide range of copper rivet sizes.
Double-Cap (Tubular) Rivets
Double-cap rivets, also known as tubular rivets or rapid rivets, are the most widely used type among hobbyists and beginners. They consist of two separate cap pieces: one with a hollow male post and one with a female cap that snaps or rolls over the post when set. The result is a neat, domed finish visible on both sides of the leather.
These rivets are available in brass, nickel, antique brass, and gunmetal finishes, making them highly versatile for decorative work. They come in two main sizes – small (also called 6mm) and large (also called 9mm) – and in various shank lengths to accommodate different leather thicknesses. Hobbycraft stores across the UK stock basic sets, though for a wider selection of finishes, online suppliers like Identity Store or Weaver Leathercraft are better options.
The main limitation of double-cap rivets is shear strength. Because the connection relies on the cap crimping over the post, they are not suitable for applications where the leather will be subjected to extreme pulling forces in opposing directions. For decorative work or light-duty joins, however, they are perfectly adequate and extremely easy to set.
Single-Cap (Stud) Rivets
Single-cap rivets have a dome on one side only. A post with a flat back passes through the leather, and the decorative cap is applied on the visible face. These are extremely popular in fashion leatherwork, punk and rock accessories, and decorative belts. They are available in enormous variety from UK suppliers like The Leather Shed and craft markets such as those hosted regularly at Spitalfields Market in East London, which has a strong tradition of artisan craft vendors.
Brass Escutcheon Pins (Pressed Rivets)
Escutcheon pins are small brass nails that are driven through leather and then peened over on the reverse side using a ball-peen hammer, without a separate burr. They are often used in bookbinding and small leather goods. Whilst not technically “rivets” in the hardware sense, they function identically for thin leather applications. They can be sourced from most UK ironmongers and craft suppliers.
Chicago Screws (Screw Rivets)
Chicago screws – also called screw posts, sex bolts, or Chicago bolts – consist of a post with an internal thread and a matching screw cap. They are not true rivets in the mechanical sense because they are removable, but they serve an identical visual and functional role in leatherwork. They are especially popular for projects where disassembly is occasionally needed, such as removable watch straps, interchangeable bag components, and notebook covers. Craft shops in the UK and suppliers like Rocky Mountain Leather UK stock these widely.
Tools You Need for Setting Rivets
Having the right tools makes the difference between a neat, professional rivet and a battered, uneven mess. Fortunately, the tool investment for riveting is modest, and most of what you need can be sourced from UK leather craft suppliers or even general hardware shops.
Hole Punches
Before a rivet can be set, a clean hole must be punched through the leather. Rotary punches – the classic plier-style tool with a rotating barrel of punch sizes – are widely available and suitable for most beginner projects. For precision work, a set of individual hollow-punch chisels struck with a maul or mallet gives cleaner, more consistent holes. Always punch on a firm surface: a wooden chopping board or a dedicated cutting mat (such as those sold by Tandy Leather) protects your bench and allows the punch to cut all the way through cleanly.
The hole diameter should match the rivet shank exactly – a tight fit prevents the rivet from shifting before it is set and produces a neater finished result. Refer to the manufacturer’s specifications for the correct punch size for each rivet type.
Rivet Setters and Anvils
For double-cap and single-cap rivets, a rivet setter and a corresponding anvil base are required. The setter is a metal rod with a concave cup on one end that fits over the rivet cap; the anvil is a block with a matching recess that cradles the opposite cap while you strike. The setter prevents the domed cap from being deformed when you hammer it. These tools often come in sets matched to specific rivet sizes and are sold by most UK leather craft suppliers.
For solid copper rivets, the tool is a copper rivet setter – a simple cylindrical rod that you use to seat the burr firmly against the leather before peening the shank with a hammer. A ball-peen hammer is the traditional choice for the peening step; a standard claw hammer will work but offers less control.
A Solid Work Surface
Riveting requires a firm, unyielding surface beneath your work. A steel block (sometimes called a bench block) is ideal; a thick steel plate or even a heavy steel anvil from a toolmaker’s merchant such as Axminster Tools – which has branches across England – works perfectly. Avoid setting rivets on soft or yielding surfaces, as the impact energy will be absorbed rather than transferred into forming the rivet correctly.
How to Set Each Type of Rivet: Step-by-Step
Setting Solid Copper Rivets
Prepare your leather pieces and mark the rivet positions with a silver pen or wing dividers. Punch a clean hole through both layers simultaneously, keeping them aligned. Choose a rivet whose shank length leaves approximately 2-3mm of copper protruding above the burr once it is seated – too much excess and the peened head will be ragged; too little and the join will be weak.
Push the rivet through from the front face (the grain side) of the leather. Slide the burr onto the protruding shank from the flesh side. Use the rivet setter to press the burr firmly down against the leather surface – you want no gap between the burr and the leather. Place the rivet head on your steel block. Using the ball-peen hammer, strike the protruding shank directly to begin mushrooming the copper outward over the burr. Work in light, even strikes, rotating the piece slightly between blows so that the copper spreads symmetrically. Finish by using the rounded face of the ball-peen to smooth the peened cap into a neat dome. The finished copper rivet should be flush, symmetrical, and impossible to pull free.
Setting Double-Cap Rivets
Punch a clean hole through the leather layers. Place the female cap (the one with the hollow socket) dome-side down in the anvil recess. Thread the male post through your leather from the flesh side so the post protrudes through the grain side. Place the male cap dome-side up over the protruding post. Position the rivet setter over the cap and strike firmly with a mallet – usually one or two solid blows are sufficient. Check the cap is fully seated and that both domes are smooth and undamaged. If the cap has distorted or the post has bent, the hole may have been
too large for the setter, or the setter itself may be worn. Always check your setter fits the rivet size before committing to a permanent join.
When setting double-cap rivets through multiple layers, ensure the layers are compressed firmly together before striking. Any gap between the layers will result in a loose rivet that rocks in place rather than holding fast. A bulldog clip or piece of strong tape can help hold layers in position whilst you work. Once set, test the rivet by trying to rotate the cap with your fingers — it should be completely fixed with no movement whatsoever. If it spins freely, the post was likely too short for the combined leather thickness, and you will need to remove it and use a longer rivet. To remove a set rivet, use a sharp punch to push out the post from beneath, then prise the caps apart carefully to avoid tearing the leather around the hole.
Practise setting double-cap rivets on scrap leather before working on a finished piece. The correct striking force is something you develop through experience — too light and the cap will not seat fully, leaving a raised edge that catches and lifts; too hard and you risk collapsing the post entirely, leaving a flat, ugly finish. Consistent, centred blows are far more effective than sheer force. If you find the cap consistently distorts to one side, check that your anvil recess is clean and free of debris, and that you are holding the setter perfectly vertical throughout the strike.
Conclusion
Riveting is one of the most dependable methods of joining leather, and with the right tools and a measured approach, it produces results that are both strong and visually clean. Whether you opt for single-cap rivets for straightforward projects, double-cap rivets where both faces are on show, or tubular and solid rivets for heavy-duty work, the principles remain the same: correct hole sizing, appropriate rivet length, and a well-fitted setter will account for the vast majority of successful outcomes. Build your confidence on scrap material, invest in quality setters, and your riveted leatherwork will hold firm for years to come.